J.W.ANDERSON 2010 AUTUMN/WINTER MEN'S COLLECTION " THE SAINT + THE ASSASSIN "
J.W.ANDERSON (J.W. アンダーソン) 2010 A/W SEASON THEME
『 THE SAINT + THE ASSASSIN 』
Watch between me and you when we are absent one from another.
This season Jonathan Anderson did not start out by looking at any distant characters
or historical figures, or at any kind of artistic or literary reference. He started out by
looking at the people he loves and has loved: his friends, family and lovers. He looked
at the people he sees day in day out, and looked at the clothes they wear, the music they
love, the movies they're into, the books they read and the subtle, repetitive gestures
that make up their characters. This collection started life by being a celebration of
those people and their passions.
Jonathan Anderson, however, is an obsessive. And with love and obsession of course
come infatuation, joy, heartbreak and longing. So it evolved to become an honest, brutal
look at love and fanatical romance, and all of the happiness, agony, pleasure and craving
that come with them. It became a collection that about the indefinable gap between
paradise and catastrophe, about the joy of romance and the awkward, strangely triumphant
feeling of melancholy and loneliness that it often belies.
As such, much of this collection is not what it seems. Loop back jersey and camel cashmere
are fused to look like shearling, while painstaking hand embroidery is used to make
cotton and wool look like astrakhan. Symbols of clawing domination, the unspoken
desire for ownership that underlies conventions of romance, appears in the form of
slave cuffs and collars, which are covered by baroque embellishments in an attempt to
dress them up as something less extreme.
Mizpah motifs and love heart keepsakes are repeated throughout the collection in the
form of stretched horn jewellery, embroidery, and embellishments made of fine silks
tied up in knots. They're sweet and romantic, but they smack of the human desire to
make fleeting experiences into something permanent and immortal.
Boiled cashmere and crepe, felted wools, and tartan blanket like fabrics produced in a
special collaboration with Highland craftsman reference back to Anderson's first ever
collection, where the fact that he had no money and no stockists meant that he had
to make everything out of blankets and felt. That season was naïve and simple, but it was
honest and optimistic, and came from the triumph of emotion over rationale. Hopefully
this collection does that too.
This show is streaming live on dazeddigital.com and anothermag.com and a capsule
collection of 5 pieces will be available immediately at oki-ni.com
J.W.ANDERSON (J.W.アンダーソン)
Designer
Jonathan William Anderson
Combining sinister phenomena with a love of mystical characters in history and literature, the intensely dramatic aesthetics of J. W. Anderson have made him one of the most intriguing menswear designers in current British fashion.
Born in Magherafelt, Northern Ireland in 1984, Jonathan William Anderson originally wanted to pursue a career in acting. In 2001, he moved to Washington DC to study drama at The Actors' Studio where he discovered a love for stage costumes. Anderson soon moved back to London where, whilst working as a stylist - most notably for the artist Rufus Wainwright - Anderson took his degree in menswear at the London College of Fashion. He graduated in 2001, at which point he had already established his label.
J. W. Anderson made it's debut at London Fashion Week in September 2007 with a menswear collection characterised by the use of real insects in jewellery. A dark, Rasputin-inspired autumn/winter 2008 collection soon followed, before Anderson made his breakthrough with the highly anticipated spring/summer 2009 collection, An Eye for An Eye.
J. W. Anderson will show his fourth menswear collection under NEWGEN at London Fashion Week in February 2010.
URL : http://www.j-w-anderson.com/
J.W.ANDERSON (J.W.アンダーソン)取り扱い店
LIBERTY (LONDON)
COCO DE MER (LOS ANGELES)
KABIRI (LONDON)
CONCENTO PARIS H.P.FRANCE (OSAKA)
KABIRIA AT SELFRIDGES&CO (LONDON)
CONCENTO PARIS H.P.FRANCE (TOKYO)
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