NON 2011 SPRING／SUMMER SEASON － BRAND Q&A
Q1. Please outline your concept for SS11 and the reasons behind it.
I've always found Alchemy fascinating. It's an art that coincides with the dawn of mankind. An art that has so much history, myth and fantasy. I had dream of creating something with it for a while and it wasn't until I really took the time out to research it's sublime mysteries, secrets, authenticity and cryptic symbols, it's importance to mankind and contribution to the creation and process of modern physical science that I understood how that could be translated into character form and garment. The alchemists were the first to put experimental method into practice, that is, the faculty of observation and induction in its application to scientific research: uniting a considerable number of facts and discoveries in the molecular actions of bodies. However during the 17th & 18th century scientists launched a scathing attack on the alchemists for their attempt to extend life, it wasn't immortality or life extension that they questioned, but more the method of achieving them. Against these scientific dreams of immortality the Romantics stepped in and conceived the notion of the 'lonely' or 'accursed' immortal. Suggesting that the extension of life can only result in an extension of misery and suffering. Despite these Romantic warnings, the desire for immortality has not ceased to be a human ideal until this very day. In the twentieth century and seeping into ours, the possibility of immortality has been hailed by semi-sci-fi methods, such as cryonics or cyborgology. Scientist's now say man's life can be extended indefinitely.
What I find interesting is that the cultural views of physical immortality remain mixed, a subject that I wanted to portray in the "Alchemia Mysteria" collection for S/S11. Pop culture treatments of the vampire or the androgynous immortal often harken back to Romanticism, portraying the loneliness, the evil, the boredom or the suffering implied in longevity. Yet in the end, if offered immortality, how many people would actually refuse it? After all, in the absence of an alchemical universal medicine, we do our very best to postpone old age or death, by taking pills, healthy foods, beauty products, plastic surgery etc. These are our modern versions of the immortality elixir.
Q2. For this season, what fabrics are you paying attention to?
I needed to use structures that were an artifact of the storytelling. Combining simplicity with exquisite luxury. Natural fibres meet man made technology, pushing towards an androgynous ideal for the modern intellectual man. Traditionalism with an awkward twist. Combinations of linear and organic; embellished and minimal; masculine and feminine; voluminous and trim; modern and mystical. The fluidity of silk mixed with a linear cotton. The femininity of hand crafted lace juxtaposed against masculine wool suiting imported from Italy.
Q3. What role does color play in your SS11 collection?
For a few seasons now I have enjoyed playing with sombre black and dark neutral tones allowing the products to be dimensionalised through layering and texture. Focusing on the intricacy of sculptural life through a harmonious colour palette.
Q4. Please choose 3 key items from the collection and outline why you chose them.
The Clamp Suit, Silk Hooded Robe and Drop Layer Pleated Trouser as I feel they deliver the message, each in there own way are familiar masculine silhouettes off set with femininity.
Q5. Please tell us what things are important to you when thinking of a new design.
My search for authenticity, my desire to further knowledge, experience and personal development. My need for complexity, intellectual stimulation and quality.
Q6. What do you think of fashion in Japan?
A melting pot of creativity... genius.
Q7. Is there any news of your brand that you would like to tell us about?
No news to share at present but maybe just more a small statement...
In need of complexity, something to reboot our intellects, stimulate and challenge. We are demanding, never maintaining a content or satisfaction for new luxuries. We continue to search for adventure, motivation, things that excite and inspire. We are all the effective and specific carriers of new culture, social, scientific and societal ideas. NON looks to banish any mask and be an open part of new culture. Open and freely transferring thought and technical expertise without the establishment of designated facilities or institutional authority.
Q8. Finally, please give us your thoughts on our website JAMOOL LIFE.
An incredible online hub for fashion followers.
Owner & Creative Director
Since grabbing the attention of fashion experts internationally over the past few seasons the NON is fast proving itself as a menswear label amongst the biggest.
Spackman’s innovative intellectual expressions and artistic visual storytelling is something of a rarity to the world of menswear.
This painstaking attention to detail is clearly shown throughout the collections. Obsessed with personal development and authenticity Tony Spackman is renowned for his intense analysis treatments and dissected visioning. Remaining solely responsible for the labels seasonal creative vision patterns and sampling Tony Spackman is an artist to the full degree and someone to keep a close eye on for the future.
Previous to NON British born Tony Spackman held the position of Men’s Design Director at Nike. Joining the company in 2000 as Men’s Senior Product Designer he took up the position of Design Director in 2003 and has since been responsible for the introduction of their leading White Label and Sport Performance collections including Running Code and MB1 ranges. From 1997 – 2000 he worked as Menswear Designer at Maharishi London.
NON: embracing our current search for authenticity our relentless desire to further knowledge experience and personal development our inexhaustible need for complexity and intellectual stimulation our ongoing search for new luxuries.
NON’s collection’s feature sleek and refined design a meticulous attention to detail and immaculate hand-tailoring; combining simplicity with exquisite luxury.
A celebration of the clothing industries of past present and future NON’s designs integrate classic formal wear and fine tailoring with casual contemporary design and technical innovation.
Drawing influences from the discoveries of the past and the developments of the future the NON combines a fascination with the 18th Century’s Age of Enlightenment – its extraordinary discoveries in science natural history and the mysticism of alchemy with a passion for contemporary scientific activity and technological advancements.
Conflicting elements and influences pervade the collection: NON embodies a series of re-contextualized styles to form an eclectic mix of shape pattern and material - where detail meets simplicity old meets new natural fibres meet manmade technology haute couture meets casual/street.
Natural fabrics and finishes sombre black and dark neutrals are dimensionalised through layering and texture.
High precision hand-crafted tailoring transforms and dissects the interiors of clean sleek and simple shapes; bringing intricate sculptural life to previously overlooked spaces.
Complex ergonomic designs achieve high levels of comfort; garments act as a second skin incorporating zoned ventilation and innovative insulation systems meticulous attention to pattern creation and a sophisticated consideration for the body in motion.
Adopting subtle colours and forms natural fabrics and hand-crafted tailoring NON embraces luxury in the detail; heralding the arrival of a new lavish and sophisticated tech-decadence.
NON is an alternative model with a common theme to acquire knowledge through experimental investigation. Owner and creative director Tony Spackman wishes to represent the concept of any and all to freely transfer thought and technical expertise to knowledgeable individuals.
URL : http://www.the-non.com/
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